Already have checked fuse in power source. At one point the fuse was blowing. I replaced the Full Wave Bridge Rectifier, fuse quit blowing. I may have found a very simple problem with the power switch maybe just an issue with solder joints I'm hoping. Terry Raymond On Jun 29, 2017 3:10 AM, "Marko Mäkelä" <msmakela@gmail.com> wrote: > On Wed, Jun 28, 2017 at 03:17:00PM -0600, Terry Raymond wrote: > >> What pins on the power switch can I jumper? >> > > I think that you can use an ohm meter to measure the resistance between > all pairs of pins, in both the ON and OFF position of the switch. This is > obviously without any power cable connected. Ignore any readings that are > above some tens of ohms. If the connection is good, it should be very close > to zero ohms. > > If the switch indeed is a problem (say, there is some dirt or corrosion > inside), the resistance could vary when you are gently rocking the switch > in the ON position. > > When it comes to the power connector, I think that the only possible > failure mode should be corrosion or mechanical damage, or a bad soldering > on the circuit board. You could add some new solder and flux and then > measure the resistance between the circuit board and the pins on the > outside. I think it should be more likely that the power cord from the > power supply is damaged, for example if the cable has been bent heavily. > Have you checked the power supply with another machine? > > I will check all the points you mention Mike. I did already check U59 >> Regulator it is getting 12V. >> > > Did you measure all voltages on the power connector solder pads on the > circuit board? Do the voltages remain stable if you gently rock the switch > in the ON position or if you bend the power cord near the connector or the > brick? > > Marko > > Message was sent through the cbm-hackers mailing list > Message was sent through the cbm-hackers mailing listReceived on 2017-06-29 17:00:03
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