On 10/28/2016 09:42 PM, Francesco Messineo wrote: > On Fri, Oct 28, 2016 at 9:39 PM, Gerrit Heitsch > <gerrit@laosinh.s.bawue.de> wrote: >> On 10/28/2016 09:11 PM, Francesco Messineo wrote: >>> >>> On Fri, Oct 28, 2016 at 8:47 PM, Gerrit Heitsch >>> <gerrit@laosinh.s.bawue.de> wrote: >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> I found it easier to just open up the PSU, remove the rectifier, >>>> capacitor >>>> and 78S05 regulator. Then add a better rectifier, capacitor and a >>>> switching >>>> regulator. The latter you can get on a small PCB on ebay cheaply. I like >>>> the >>>> boards based on the MP1584. >>>> >>>> From the outside the result looks the same, the PSU no longer runs hot, >>>> you >>>> get the real 9V AC and, on the +5V, you get more than the 1.5A the old >>>> PSU >>>> gave you. >>> >>> >>> this would be great if only the European PSUs weren't filled with >>> epoxy, making them >>> virtually unfixables :( >> >> >> Depends on the PSU... The early ones (*) have only the transformer part >> filled with resin. The part that contains the capacitor and rectifier is >> hollow. The only problem is to get the bottom off, but that's easy once you >> figure out how it's done. Once the bottom is off, you have access to >> everything you need to replace the regulator. > > hm you give me a great hope. I have a few "early" ones and only one of > the newer :) > I have definitely to figure out how to get off the bottom! I use a flathead screwdriver and some (gentle) force. So far I've always succeeded. Important... Before removing the PCB, mark which lead is connected to GND and which is +5V. The 78S05 has GND on the middle pin. When using a board with the MP1584 from Ebay, adjust the voltage before connecting to the C64. The boards I got were set to 10V. Gerrit Message was sent through the cbm-hackers mailing listReceived on 2016-10-28 20:02:30
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